Travelmag
  • Europe
  • Americas
  • Asia Pacific
  • Central Asia
  • Deals
  • Africa
  • Editorials
  • Pole to Pole
  • Middle East
  • Home
  • About
  • Write for Us
  • Home
  • About
  • Write for Us
Travelmag
Travelmag
  • Europe
  • Americas
  • Asia Pacific
  • Central Asia
  • Deals
  • Africa
  • Editorials
  • Pole to Pole
  • Middle East
  • Africa

A brief flirtation with the edge of the Sahara

  • 12/05/2015
  • James Sinclair
Total
0
Shares
0
0
0

Leaving Marrakech, Ramsay, Dave and I crossed over the Atlas Mountains and through the rocky, splintered, dry terrain on the other side. After 600km on the road, we left our 4×4 at Merzouga and hired some camels. We had reached the Sahara.

As the sun slowly fell from the sky we kerchunked – as good a description as I have for the ungainly movement of a camel – through the light brush and gravel, over the first humps of sand and into the dunes proper.

120515IMG_2299 (3)The nature of a dune makes it inherently difficult to judge its size. From afar the dunes looked large, but with each minor dune scaled, the ones further off perceivably grew. With a sore behind – I’m sorry, camels just aren’t comfortable – we made it to the foot of one of the largest dunes, some 200m high, and chucked our packs into the small Bedouin shelter which we would call home for the night.

As darkness took hold and the stars came out, we set our sights on the summit of our sheltering dune. After half an hour of two-steps-forwards-one-step-back, calf-twanging climbing, we made it to the peak. It was worth every step.

A full moon had risen on the horizon and lit up the desert with its eerie, gloomy shadow. Below, the small lights of the camp and beyond that, just sand and rock as far as the eye could see.

It is hard to beat the top of the Saharan dune with two buddies and the man in the moon, but getting back down ran it close. Our short-lived serenity was discarded for the unexpected thrills of dune bounding. Yup, head down the steep face and… jump. Lunge after lunge with increasing chaos, culminating in a face plant on the desert floor.

120515IMG_2345 (3)A few hours shut-eye was curtailed for a second climb. Out of the tent still in a dream, we trudged up the other side of the dune. Steeper this time, we criss-crossed up, made it to the crest and tottered our way to the summit.

We had made it just in time and the evening’s vista was surpassed. On one side, the moon dived for the skyline. On the other, a pin-prick of light pierced the Algerian horizon as the sun rose. The planetary bodies which dominate our lives came and went in unison. Perched on a long, thin ridge, the sand blew into our eyes as the desert lit up.

With every degree the sun rose, the multitude of shadows shifted in emboldening colours. This desolate place became a palate for the sun.

Before we departed for some more dune-bounding, we welcomed an inspiring visitor. Breaking through the sand at the very peak, a small dung-beetle waddled his way in search of sustenance. He found none and had nowhere to go but down. Life perseveres through the extremes.
120515IMG_2351 (3)

Related posts:

  1. Erg Chebbi – edge of the Sahara Norwegian Vemund Jensen is far from home in Morocco's Erg Chebbi. But is the desert just one very big beach?...
  2. Across the Sahara – in 1970 Sparked by a job offer in Zambia, newlyweds Sara and Ross Dunn set off in their Hillman Hunter for the...
  3. Journey to the Edge Chee-Su-lin hits Koh Phangan's sands at that special time of the month when the full moon fills the sky. But...
  4. Close to the edge in El Dorado Working as a musician is apt to take you to unexpected places. For Karen Phillips in Mexico a fiesta gig leads to...
Total
0
Shares
Share 0
Tweet 0
Pin it 0
James Sinclair

Previous Article
  • Central Asia

One leg’s enough to travel round Sri Lanka

  • 12/05/2015
  • Isabel Kingdon
View Post
Next Article
  • Deals
  • Europe

In the footsteps of legends on the islands of Greece

  • 25/05/2015
  • Cliff Blaylock
View Post
You May Also Like
View Post
  • Africa
  • Deals

How many days in Kenya is enough?

  • Paul Woollacombe
  • 16/06/2021
Madagascar rice
View Post
  • Africa
  • Asia Pacific

A surreal drive across Madagascar’s highlands

  • John Gimlette
  • 17/01/2021
View Post
  • Africa
  • Deals

Top South African holiday resorts

  • Paul Woollacombe
  • 06/11/2020
View Post
  • Africa

A bad day in Fez for one slightly skinny chicken

  • Michael Edwards
  • 17/10/2020
Kibera slum Nairobi
View Post
  • Africa

It used to be ‘Mzungu!’ Now ‘Corona’ is a Nairobi greeting

  • Lee Ruddin
  • 01/07/2020
Mucabal woman, Angola
View Post
  • Africa

A journey through Angola, with contrasts and surprises

  • Lesley Pritt
  • 05/05/2020
Elephants in the Central African Republic
View Post
  • Africa

On safari in the Central African Republic

  • Lesley Pritt
  • 24/04/2020
View Post
  • Africa

Horned zebu cattle and potholes: motorbike Madagascar

  • Donal Conlon
  • 30/01/2020
Travelmag
The Independent Spirit

Input your search keywords and press Enter.