It seemed unbelievable. We’d just arrived in New Orleans, Louisiana’s largest city and the Birthplace of Jazz, when dark grey clouds rolled in. Suddenly the heavens opened and down came the rain. This was the tail end of Hurricane Patricia which was sweeping its way across the southern United States. Undeterred we set out on our journey of discovery.
First of all, we bought a 3-day pass to the Hop-On Hop-Off double-decker bus City Tour. To sit outside on the open-air top deck was out of the question. Thankfully, downstairs it was somewhat drier. The route took us through the Central Business District, the elegant Garden District and the historic French Quarter. The ever-patient driver manoeuvred her way along busy Magazine Street with its numerous shops and down tree-lined St. Charles Avenue. En route, we passed the famous Lafayette Cemetery, National World War II Museum, Louisiana Superdome and popular River Walk. Three separate walking tours were included. We joined the guided walk around the French Quarter between waves of moisture.
Our guide told us about the history of the Quarter, the heart and soul of New Orleans. It has endured a mercurial past suffering from ravaging fires, devastating floods and raging battles. At an elevation of only five feet above sea level and located on a bend in the Mississippi River, the Quarter was first claimed by the French in the 1680s. The Spanish gained control of Louisiana for some 40 years until in 1803 the State became part of America. Gradually the Quarter expanded and today covers about 78 square blocks. Designated as a National Historic Landmark, the exteriors of the historic old buildings have been preserved. They reflect an eclectic mixture of architectural styles … Creole, French, Spanish and American. We wandered past homes displaying colourful walls, varying roof styles, courtyard fountains, decorated ironwork balconies and ornate galleries.
Following our guide over the uneven sidewalks, we soon reached Jackson Square. In the middle is a statue of Major General Andrew Jackson on horseback. He was hailed as the hero of the Battle of New Orleans in the War of 1812 between the Americans and the British. Up front and centre is St. Louis Cathedral named in honour of King Louis IX of France. Adorned with three steeples, it was completed in the 1850s. Venturing inside I admired the stained glass windows and the Rococo-style gilded altar. Meanwhile my husband watched a local entertainer put the finishing touches to an intricate face-painting design. In the Cathedral’s courtyard several artisans had braved the inclement weather and had set up stalls to display their work. Despite the incessant drizzle, musicians, young and old, were there, too. We stood awhile and listened to one young lad who was beating out a syncopated rhythm using just a couple of sticks and two empty containers.
Wild joyful music in its many genres is vital to the culture of New Orleanians with Preservation Hall being the number one place for jazz. We had purchased advance tickets. These entitled us to sit on wooden benches. Other patrons had to stand or sit on cushions on the floor. It is a small, rustic hall filled with atmosphere. Barely 100 fans can crowd in to each show. We waited patiently outside in heavy rain and strong winds for the doors to open. There were seven musicians playing that night including the leader on trombone, a drummer, string double bass player, pianist and a tenor sax. The performance went by in a flash. There were lively ragtime numbers, Dixieland tunes and, of course, a rendition of the Basin Street Blues and an awesome drum solo. We all applauded loudly.
Being a foodie in New Orleans is an adventure for the palate. Despite my husband’s misgivings, we dropped in to a demonstration cookery class. New Orleans cuisine, Chef Nita advised, combines elements of French, Spanish and African fare with a dash of Italian and British thrown in. Cajun or country cooking is always brown in colour. Creole or town cooking has a more reddish hue. The reason lies with Mother Earth. Much of New Orleans is below sea-level where it is difficult to grow carrots. In Cajun country, the summer heat makes it tricky to cultivate tomatoes. Lots of the ingredients were foreign to us. There was “tasso”, dried pork shoulder cured in spices and smoked, which is only sold locally. There was filé, ground sassafras root, which is used to thicken gumbo, a form of chowder. While Chef Nita was dispensing culinary information, delicious aromas were emanating from the kitchen. Soon, we were each served a small dish of Red Beans and Rice, followed by some tasty Jambalaya and a healthy helping of Bread Pudding. And as a decadent indulgence, each person received a couple of New Orleans-style Pralines (“Praw leens), a traditional Creole candy made with pecans, butter, white sugar and cream.
The Quarter boasts many restaurants, bars and cafés. On each occasion we tried to select something unusual. We sampled Crawfish Etoufée which comprises lots of plump crawfish bathed in a seasoned sauce served over rice. Feeling adventurous, one day my husband chose the Alligator Bites. The verdict: “tastes just like pork”. Each Louisiana chef cooks Seafood Gumbo with love. It contains endless combinations of seafood but always, always, it must be made with a good fish stock. Some gumbos have okra, some don’t; some have tomatoes, some don’t. Finally, we couldn’t leave New Orleans without sharing a generous slab of Pecan Pie. Every bite exuded buttery richness.
In just several days, we soaked up some of New Orleans’ colourful history, enjoyed the vibrant music and loved the flavourful fare of the Deep South. Another time, if the weather is fine, perhaps we’ll take in a Swamp Adventure, visit a haunted plantation house or an historic antebellum mansion, hop on a Mississippi paddle-wheeler for a jazz cruise, join a Mardi Gras parade or even ride on the historic streetcars or in a horse-drawn carriage. Rain or shine, there’s much to celebrate in New Orleans. Y’all Come.
All photos by David Grimble.
