It’s hard to love Israel’s Be’er Sheva
On a research project amongst the Negev Desert's displaced Bedouin, Victoria Fifield bases herself in the Israeli settlement of Be'er Sheva. She doesn't like it much.
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Middle East
116 posts
A tense transit through Ben Gurion Airport
The Israelis aren't generally keen on academics researching Bedouin culture. So Victorian Fifield is clearly on thin ice as she clears immigration. Once admitted to the country her welcome cools further.
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Mount Sinai: getting to the top – the easy way
Albert Englehardt finds a camel eases the route on the demanding climb up Jabal Mousa, Egypt's most sacred mountain.
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Cave churches and fairy chimneys in deepest Cappadocia
Elizabeth von Pier explores the cave churches and fairy chimneys of Turkey's Cappadocia region.
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Petra by horse, mule, and donkey
Among the highlights of Jordan, Petra is undoubtedly the most dramatic. Elizabeth von Pier saddles up a horse at dawn.
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How Egypt is different to what you see in the media
Don't be put off by the negative impression you get on the mainstream media. Egypt is fascinating, says Jack Carter.
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Thanks for the memories: a night in Morocco
Travelling with friends, Bonnie Lynn finds a moment of tranquility in Morocco's desert spaces.
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Al Ain: Abu Dhabi’s oasis in the desert
Abu Dhabi is known for its eponymous capital city, but few people visit Al Ain, the Emirate's second city. Elizabeth von Pier finds enchantment in the desert.
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An undercurrent of unease in Dahab, Egypt’s hippy dive spot
Egypt's tourist industry is in very poor shape. Nick Redmayne travels to the Sinai and finds neither revolution nor coup has done much to improve the lot of the Egyptian people.
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A drive around Iran in the era of the Shah
In 1973 Iran was a very different place - and being a British diplomat was an advantage. Martin Berthoud makes the most of his rank.
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7 incredible things you should do in Dubai
There's a great deal to do in the Middle East's most popular tourist destination. Lucy Barker runs through the best things to do in the United Arab Emirates.
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A small-town welcome in 1970’s Iran
Devika A Rosamund takes the legendary 'Magic Bus' to India in the 70's, but breaks away in Teheran to continue independently. Her journey suddenly gets a whole lot slower.
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Jordan’s deserted desert castles
Lured away by Petra and other headline sights, few visitors to Jordan head fifty miles out of Amman to explore ancient castles marooned in sand. Elizabeth von Pier finds the experience peaceful and entrancing.
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In 700 words, the difference between Shi’ah and Sunni
In the middle of Kit Mayers' fascinating book about the 16th Century explorer Anthony Jenkinson is a tiny passage where he explains the difference between the grand divide in mainstream Islamic thought. Admirably concise and clear.
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There are no straight lines in Cairo
When Ignacio M Delgado flies into Egypt's capital, he makes plans with his map. But the city confounds his itinerary and leads him, surprisingly, to Al-Muizz Street.
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Vacation in Tel Aviv: meet the city of summer
Israel is often in the headlines for all the wrong reasons. Paul Woollacombe says that in holiday season it can be a great beach destination.
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Egypt, where the tourists no longer dare talk
Tough times for the tourist industry in Egypt. Catherine Oughtibridge ventures into the Valley of Kings and finds all is not well amongst the tombs of an ancient civilisation.
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Israel’s birth explained – in 450 words
Gordon Kerr''s new book, 'A short history of the Middle East' is admirably concise. His explanation of the creation of the state of Israel is a masterpiece of clarity.
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What France did in Syria between World Wars
Gordon Kerr's latest history book gallops through the tortuous history of the Middle East. This section explores how France sculpted borders onto Syria and Lebanon in the gap between World Wars.
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Entering ‘The Birdcage’: Jerusalem, state-sanctified for Arabs
There's no easy way into the Middle East's sacred city for many of its rural neighbours. Hasheemah Afaneh takes half a day to clear Israeli security in a family visit to her nearest town.
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6 of the best Dubai hotels for family holidays
Looking for an inexpensive blast of winter sun? Dubai's your best bet. Gemma James from Travelbag has the scoop.
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Don’t drop your smile if you want to survive Petra
Jordan's iconic Nabatean highlight has plenty to inspire visitors. But Thomas Dowling finds it also has a fair selection of sophisticated - and often young - hustlers who are well used to visitors.
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Events to look out for in Dubai 2016
Dubai is the standout star of Middle Eastern tourism and there's always plenty going on. There are, however, a few major events that might just influence when you choose to visit: Paul Woollacombe rounds up your options.
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Essential steps for a trip to Israel with your little ones
Israel is one of the Middle East's most exciting tourist destinations. Shlomo SIXT has some tips for planning a family visit to a country that combines beach, beauty, history and culture.
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5 stunning sites you have to see in the Middle East
Despite the headlines much of the Middle East remains perfectly safe - and largely devoid of tourists. Lucy Barker says there are at least five must-see sights that should be on every bucket list, and now's a great time to get them to yourself.
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Practical advice for divers in Egypt’s Red Sea
Don't boycott the Middle East: they need your tourist dollars. Nick Bush has some first-hand advice for divers to help them make the most of the Red Sea reefs.
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An edgy stroll through downtown Bagdad
Even before Isis Iraq was already a deadly place. Robin Ratchford has two armed guards for his expedition to downtown Bagdad, which involves checkpoints, security checks and vegetables for sale.
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Now may actually be a good time to visit Iraq
When all news is of Isis, most travellers shy clear of Iraq. But neglect - and a lack of tourists - mean many of Mesopotamia's ancient treasures are crumbling back to dust. Joseph Shawyer says this might be your last opportunity.
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In Palestine’s West Bank, even when peaceful, life is no fun at all
As a volunteer teacher in the occupied territories of the West Bank, Jonathon Engels finds that even for a Westerner life under Israeli occupation is routinely alarming. And for the local Palestinians, it's prison.
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Somali refugees bring geopolitics to a dusty road in Yemen
Tom Allen escapes his military escort in Yemen's southern deserts but soon meets a group of refugees, fresh from a boat from Somalia. And when they ask for his help he has little to offer.
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Cycling through Yemen’s kidnap-happy badlands
Tom Allen is woefully unprepared for his cycle ride out of Aden, passing as it does some of the world's most dangerous insurgent areas. So when the army comes to his help it seems natural to accept a lift.
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Ignore the hype: Dubai is dull
Thanks to good air links and little or no taxation, Dubai is something of a tour operator's darling. Anthony Toole, however, is resolutely unimpressed.
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A stamp collector’s guide to Yemen’s ancient capital
Seven-year-old Robin Ratchford was fascinated by a postage stamp from Yemen, in the heart of Arabia. Thirty years later he finally gets to visit Sana'a, the capital, but finds the country's newest stamps hardly live up to the original.
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A guide to Saudi Arabian life in the 90’s
Back in the 90's the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia was .. er .. very much like it is now. Allan Jack, working in the oil industry, explains how daily life played out for the expatriate community.
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An unconventional visa run in a Bangladeshi Embassy
It's easy enough to get visas in London. Almost every country has embassies. But Jason Smart is in Qatar. Doha is different, and getting an Indian visa had been a nightmare - but Bangladesh proves a breeze.
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Pace-counting doesn’t work to navigate Sana’s historic centre
It's famously easy to get disoriented in the narrow alleys of Yemen's ancient capital, but Robin Ratchford has two maps and counts every step. It makes his walking tour feel rather like a treasure hunt - but doesn't stop him getting lost.
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Thanksgiving dinner in a Turkey without turkeys
Though rarely a stickler for tradition, John M Edwards does appreciate, just once a year, a good traditional Thanksgiving feast. Lamb-strewn Istanbul treats his requests with contempt and he does little better in Kusadasi.
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Luxor’s little luxuries
The 'Arab Spring' swept away not just Egypt's leaders but also most of its tourists. Kerry-Ann Virgo and Nicholas Hussain, undeterred, are charmed by the Nile Valley's tombs, temples, treasures - and people.
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